Tucked away in the lush northern coast of the Dominican Republic, Las Terrenas offers a rhythm of life where the ceviche tastes like it was caught moments ago, and palm-lined beaches stretch endlessly under the Caribbean sun.
While the majority of travelers to the Dominican Republic fly straight into Punta Cana and settle into the comfort of beachfront resorts, a more curious kind of visitor ventures off the beaten path. That journey might begin in Santo Domingo, with a road trip through the heart of the island, heading north toward the Samaná Peninsula — a slender stretch of land jutting into the Atlantic like an outstretched finger.
Though only a few miles wide, the peninsula is rich with natural treasures: humpback whales in season, hidden waterfalls cascading through the jungle, and remote beaches that feel like private sanctuaries. But for many, the true gem of the region lies on the north coast — the town of Las Terrenas.
Praised by Vogue as reminiscent of “what Tulum was like 15 years ago,” Las Terrenas balances laid-back charm with just the right dose of energy. It’s a place where soft sands, winding beach roads, and an unpolished authenticity lure both locals and travelers alike. As one local friend put it: “Las Terrenas is the promised land.
As the bus began its climb through the lush green hills that lead to Las Terrenas, the landscape opened up into a breathtaking overlook — a sweeping view of endless palm-lined beaches and shimmering turquoise waters. The sight alone was enough to send a jolt of excitement through me. For the next stretch of winding road, I found myself gripping the seat ahead like a kid on a school trip, equal parts anticipation and awe.
From the Sea into My Bowl
The next morning, I hopped on a rented moped — 50 bucks for the day — determined to explore the beaches beyond the main strip. I was staying at a modest but welcoming spot, the Costarena Beach Hotel, where a night runs about 8,200 pesos. Though I’ve had plenty of experience weaving through tropical towns on two wheels, Las Terrenas gave me a real test: traffic that pulsed unpredictably, patches of roadwork, tricky one-ways, and the occasional dog sprinting out of nowhere. Maybe this was the “gritty charm” everyone kept talking about, but I was quickly craving a pause — and a plate of something fresh.
A tip from the hotel clerk led me toward a cluster of beachside food joints with no clear address, just the vague instruction: “between the cemetery and the sea.” Easy choice. I grabbed a plastic chair under a palm tree at Zu Ceviche & Grill, just steps from a row of brightly painted fishing boats. I ordered their house ceviche — 790 pesos — and leaned back to soak in the view. That’s when I noticed my waiter jogging down the beach. Curious, I stood up, wondering what exactly I had just ordered.
Perfect, here’s a reimagined version of that next portion, continuing naturally from the previous section and maintaining the immersive, blog-style tone:
Not far from my shady spot, a group of fishermen stood barefoot around a wooden table, scaling and slicing into the morning’s catch with practiced hands. Minutes later, my waiter returned, proudly holding a fish by the tail — my ceviche hadn’t just come from the sea, it had practically swum onto my plate.
Just a short stroll down the shoreline sits Pueblo de los Pescadores, once the epicenter of nightlife in Las Terrenas. A devastating fire in 2021 brought it to ashes, but the area has since been reborn — a fresh stretch of pastel-painted restaurants now welcomes locals and visitors alike with sunset cocktails and laid-back DJ sets.
From that lively hub, the coastline stretches endlessly in both directions. The beaches may have names, but they flow into one another so seamlessly that it feels like one unbroken ribbon of sand. Closer to town, some sections were marked by scattered trash and signs of construction, so I steered my moped east along 27 de Febrero — a coastal road where the ocean hugs one side and casual eateries line the other. The further I went, the more untouched everything became — wider stretches of sand, fewer footprints, and postcard-worthy palms framing the water.
Just a short ride from town, I pulled into a quiet clearing nestled among the trees and joined a few other mopeds parked there. Stepping onto Playa Carolina felt like entering a hidden paradise — where a crystal-clear, shallow stream gently flowed into the ocean and children laughed as they splashed in the refreshing water.
As I ventured west along the stretch of beaches from Las Terrenas, I discovered several inviting beach clubs where visitors could relax under umbrellas, lounge on chairs, and enjoy fresh meals. The highlight was undoubtedly Mosquito Boutique Hotel at Playa Bonita, just a 15-minute ride from downtown. This spot boasted a great surf break, a spacious restaurant, and live DJs spinning tunes at sunset — perfect for unwinding after a day in the sun. (Rooms start around 7,130 pesos, usually with a two-night minimum.)
With an abundance of stunning beaches, each with its own name—was this Playa Bonita or Playa Escondida?—picking a favorite felt impossible. In the end, I realized that my favorite beach was simply the one I was enjoying right then.
European Vibes and Prices
Under the dictatorship of Rafael Trujillo from 1930 to 1961, many impoverished residents of Santo Domingo relocated to the once-untamed and sparsely inhabited north coast of the Samaná Peninsula. For years, the area stayed isolated and undeveloped, only receiving electricity as late as 1994.
Starting in the 1960s, Las Terrenas began attracting foreign visitors, particularly French expatriates, who built rustic vacation homes along the coast. Today, European influences are deeply woven into the town’s character, reflected in its boutiques and eateries — though prices here can be surprisingly steep. For example, a linen dress that cost $50 in Italy last summer was listed for $400 in Las Terrenas.
For those seeking a luxurious experience, Las Terrenas offers upscale vacation homes with private pools and manicured lawns, alongside high-end shopping and dining options. I got a taste of this lifestyle with a refreshing Coco Loco mocktail at Porto by Mosquito, a trendy seaside spot with elegant tropical décor. My best meal came later at El Lugar, where a sunset ocean view set the stage for a sizzling steak platter seasoned with charred herbs.
One of the perks of Las Terrenas’ European flair—even for those traveling on a budget—is the abundance of quality cafés serving up fresh croissants and rich cappuccinos. Favorites like La Paneria Italian Bakery and Boulangerie Française offer a taste of Europe right by the Caribbean.
Source: The New York Times
